Wednesday, April 03, 2013

Humor Chic Hot News - HAIBAO & CHINADAILY "NO FAKES by aleXsandro Palombo"

 
NO FAKES by aleXsandro Palombo
是Copy还是致敬 大牌设计师相继卷入“抄袭门”

近日著名讽刺漫画网站Humor Chic的博主aleXsandro Palombo就他所认定的3组时装抄袭作品发布了名为《No Fakes》的漫画,矛头直指3位大碗:Phoebe Philo、Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons。
...
不知多少人听说了前段时间思琳 (Celine) 创意总监Phoebe Philo涉嫌抄袭的事情?起初并不以为意,觉得抄袭这件事本就不光彩,况且是否属于抄袭也是见仁见智的事。谁料最近又有两位时装界的大腕设计师被指抄袭——Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons。

近日,Humor Chic的博主aleXsandro Palombo就他所认定的抄袭作品发布了3组名为《No Fakes》的漫画,矛头直指Phoebe Philo、Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons分别在思琳 (Celine) 、普拉达(Prada) 、迪奥(Dior) 发布的新季作品。Humor Chic是个时尚界有名的一个讽刺漫画博客,设计师、时尚编辑、品牌都是它们拿来嘲讽的素材。博主aleXsandro Palombo声称自己发布这一系列漫画的用意是“揪出时装设计师中的copycat,力挺原创”。

先来说下最先中枪的菲比·菲罗 (Phoebe Philo) ,她在思琳 (Celine) 2013秋冬系列中发布的一件胸前饰有打结袖子的灰色大衣,与前辈Geoffrey Beene大师 (1924-2004) 的一件经典作品有着超高的相似度:袖子同在胸前打结,两侧饰有斜口袋,上窄下宽的垂坠廓形还有相似的面料和色彩……看过对比图的后,相信Phoebe Philo自己也觉得难逃抄袭之嫌。
虽然思琳 (Celine) 官方发言人拒绝评论此事,但Geoffrey Beene官方基金会却对该事件表现得很是宽容大度:“大师Geoffrey Beene近年来启发了很多设计师的灵感,Phoebe Philo重新创作的这件单品是大师生前的经典设计之一,这是大师作品拥有恒久魅力的体现。”

最先发现Phoebe Philo涉嫌抄袭这件事的Garmento编辑Jeremy Lewis同样认为这件作品“致敬”的意味大于抄袭,对此大嘴“老佛爷”Karl Lagerfeld还发表过一句微评论:“当时我就震惊了!”
除了Phoebe Philo外,普拉达 (Prada) 设计师Miuccia Prada、迪奥 (Dior) 设计师Raf Simons也同样中枪了:
Raf Simons被诟病的作品是他在迪奥(Dior) 2013春夏女装秀上发表的一件蓝白配色、玫瑰印花蓬裙。这条裙子与著名戏服设计师Edith Head (1897-1981) 的一件作品也有着极高的相似度。[编编Air插播:有趣的是,美国设计师Michael Kors之前曾被指抄袭Raf Simons的这条蓬裙,真是冤冤相“抄”何时了……]
被吐槽难看僵硬的普拉达(Prada) 2013春夏系列,竟然也是抄袭来的?插画博主aleXsandro Palombo找来了两组Andr Courrges与Miuccia Prada作品的对比图,对樱花灵感的运用简直如出一辙。比起Raf Simons的抄袭对象,这位安德烈·库雷热(Andre Courreges) 可是上世纪鼎鼎有名的Space Age开创者。如此大胆“借鉴”名家作品,Miuccia Prada也真够胆~

VIA HAIBAO - CHINADAILY

Humor Chic Hot News - WEEKEND KNACK (Lifestyle Magazine, BELGIUM) Illustrator aleXsandro Palombo vereeuwigde enkele modeontwerpers die niet vies zijn van wat kopieerwerk.

 
 
Prada, Dior en Céline als copycats?
 
Waar halen modeontwerpers hun inspiratie vandaan en zoeken ze die soms niet te veel bij andere ontwerpers? De copycat discussie laait af en toe weer op. Illustrator aleXsandro Palombo vereeuwigde enkele modeontwerpers die niet vies zijn van wat kopieerwerk.
Humor Chic is een satirische blog die al jaren de spot drijft met designers, moderedacties en merken door haar scherpe illustraties.
Recent besliste de illustrator van de blog aleXsandro Palombo om het copieus gedrag van sommige designers te onthullen. In tegenstelling tot zijn vorige tekeningen heeft hij hier misschien wel een gevoelige snaar geraakt. Palombo, die ook modeontwerper is, tekende eerder al de Simpson versies van beroemde iconen uit de modewereld.
Palombo’s laatste campagne ‘No Fake’ toont afbeeldingen van recente catwalkbeelden van Dior, Prada en Celine naast de historische ontwerpen die ze gekopieerd hebben.
Zo toont hij een Phoebe Philo mantel voor Céline dat veel weg heeft van een Geoffrey Beene jas en een Raf Simons ontwerp voor Dior dat bijna identiek is aan een jurk van Edith Head, een legendarische kostuumontwerpster in Hollywood. Ook sommige gebloemde ontwerpen van Miuccia Prada lijken sterk op die van de Franse modeontwerper André Courrèges.

Kunnen we spreken van copycats of zijn het eerder hommages aan de originele kledingstukken? Of is het allemaal gewoon een goede grap, zoals Palombo suggereert?
 
 
 

Humor Chic Press - MARIE CLAIRE "Александро Паломбо (aleXsandro Palombo)"


 
Итальянский художник уличил Prada и Dior в заимствовании идей
 
Итальянский художник и дизайнер Александро Паломбо в своем юмористическом блоге о моде показал, как современные творения крупнейших домов перекликаются с коллекциями прошлых эпох.
 
Художник из Милана Александро Паломбо (aleXsandro Palombo) проверил современные модные коллекции на плагиат, а результаты своих изысканий опубликовал в популярном блоге о моде HumorChic. В своей кампании No Fake («Нет подделкам!») Паломбо «вывел на чистую воду» дизайнеров Prada, Dior и Celine. Как оказалось, некоторые их творения подозрительно походят на вещи из коллекций модельеров прошлого века. Достаточно взглянуть на сопоставленные фото нарядов, и сомнений в правоте художника почти не остается.Так, симпатичные наряды с крупными цветками от Prada оказались копией вещей, которые французский дизайнер Андре Курреж (Andre Courreges) создал десятки лет назад. В коллекции Dior оказался наряд с пышной юбкой, разрисованной синими цветами, напоминающий творение американки Эдит Хэд (Edith Head), которая родилась еще в позапрошлом веке. А пальто от Celine практически полностью повторяет наряд, созданный американским дизайнером Джеффри Бином (Geoffrey Beene).
 
Александро Паломбо не первый год высмеивает лучших дизайнеров забавными и порой жесткими карикатурами в блоге HumorChic (что можно перевести как «шик с юмором»). Даже серьезные новости из мира моды благодаря рисункам художника превращаются в повод для улыбки. Так, в блоге уже появились «веселые картинки» и на тему того, что Мэрилин Мэнсон (Marilyn Manson) стал лицом Saint Laurent. В интерпретации Паломбо зловещий музыкант ест главного дизайнера марки Эдди Слимана (Hedi Slimane) за ужином.
 
 

Tuesday, April 02, 2013

Humor Chic Hot News - "Raf Simons, Miuccia Prada Called Out for Copying Historic Designs"


 
 
Humor Chic, a satirical blog about the fashion industry, has been making fun of designers, editors and labels for years with its envelope-pushing (to put it mildly) illustrations–and most recently the blog’s illustrator aleXsandro Palombo has made it his mission to expose what he considers to be blatant designer rip-offs. Unlike some of Palombo’s more unnecessarily lewd illustrations, it actually looks like he might have a point.
 
Palombo’s latest “campaign” titled “No Fakes,” features images of recent Dior, Prada and Celine runway looks juxtaposed with historic designers he feels they copied: a Phoebe Philo design for Céline that looks a lot like a Geoffrey Beene coat, plus a Raf Simons design for Dior that closely resembles an Edith Head garment, and several designs by Miuccia Prada that are similar to some by André Courrèges. According to Palombo’s site, his intent is to “protect fashion designers from copycats.”
 
So are these designs derivative–or are they merely homages to the originals? Or is all just a joke, as Palombo would suggest?
 
 

Humor Chic Fashion & Copycats - Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo "NO RATS" by aleXsandro Palombo



 
"NO FAKES" Campaign
 

Monday, April 01, 2013

Humor Chic Campaign - André Courrèges, Edith Head and Geoffrey Beene. Protecting fashion designers from copycats "NO FAKE" by aleXsandro Palombo

 


 
Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons Copies Edith Head
 
 
Miuccia Prada Copies André Courrèges
 
 
Céline's creative director Phoebe Philo Copies Geoffrey Beene
 

Humor Chic Fashion & Rats - Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons is a great "Copycat" by aleXsandro Palombo

 
 
Raf Simons Copies Edith Head
 
 
Edith Head (October 28, 1897 – October 24, 1981) was an American costume designer who won eight Academy Awards, more than any other woman.
 

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Humor Chic Fashion & Rats - Miuccia Prada is a great "Copycat" by aleXsandro Palombo


Miuccia Prada Copies André Courrèges
 

 
André Courrèges (born 9 March 1923 in Pau) is a French fashion designer, known for his ultra-modern designs. At the age of 25, after studying to be a civil engineer, he went to Paris to work at the Jeanne Lafaurie fashion design house. A few months later he went over to Balenciaga, the renowned Spanish designer.
Both Courrèges and Mary Quant lay claim to the invention of the miniskirt.
 

Humor Chic Fashion & Rats - Céline's creative director Phoebe Philo is a great "Copycat" by aleXsandro Palombo

 
 Phoebe Philo Copies Geoffrey Beene

 
Geoffrey Beene (August 30, 1924 – September 28, 2004) was an American fashion designer.
 

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Humor Chic - aleXsandro Palombo on "LIFE STYLE" China Media Group

 

 
恶搞 时尚的又一剂回春药
 
还有直接把老佛爷送进“墓地”的那位Palombo大爷,在《Karl Lagerfeld : vision of a funeral》一书中,Anna Wintour亲吻着棺材里的Karl Lagerfeld,而抬棺材的竟是Tom Ford,继这本小说风靡时尚圈之后,最近Palombo又推出了新的《Secret Book》。据说书还未发行,就已被提前超额订购。人们不禁纷纷猜测,这本书到底有些什么秘密,而谁又会成为Palombo嘲讽的新对象呢?这些无厘头的桥段让时尚圈的灵魂们情何以堪,但就是有人这么做了,也没挨板砖,说不定这其中的主角也曾是恶搞的鼻祖呢,正应了那句话,“哪个人前不搞人,哪个背后无人搞?”

  真理有时候就是秃子头上的虱子,恶搞大咖是名利双收最轻松愉快的方式,不知道哪位大咖会成为下一个中枪的人,而这股潮流会给时尚以及各种圈的未来带来何等影响?

 

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Humor Chic - Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld "Habemus Papam" by aleXsandro Palombo


 

Humor Chic Fashion News - Life Style China Daily "Karl Lagerfeld - Vision of a Funeral by aleXsandro Palombo"

 
 
 
 
恶搞对象:Karl Lagerfeld
 
左右时尚圈的设计师与时装编辑总是插画家们笔下的灵魂人物,但敢于恶搞他们形象的插画家,除了aleXsandro Palombo之外也屈指可数了。他以诙谐幽默的文字加上古怪恶搞的插画见长,许多大名鼎鼎的设计师和时装编辑都成为他嘲讽的对象。
在《Karl Lagerfeld : vision of a funeral》一书中,Palombo 为老佛爷的“葬礼”设计好每一个细节。其中一张插画,Karl 躺在棺材里,Anna Wintour跪在一旁。
他第一本插画小说《Karl Lagerfeld :vision of a funeral》限量发行之后,就立即被抢购一空。在小说中,他虚构了Karl Lagerfeld的葬礼,Anna Wintour和Grace Coddington伤心地抱着老佛爷,而Tom Ford竟然成为抬棺材的人。
继这本小说风靡时尚圈之后,最近Palombo又推出了新的《Secret Book》。据说书还未发行,就已被提前超额订购。人们不禁纷纷猜测,这本书到底有些什么秘密,而谁又会成为Palombo嘲讽的新对象呢?
 
 

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Humor Chic Hot News - LIFESTYLE SG CHINA "Humor Chic by aleXsandro Palombo"



时尚插画比真人大片更摩登


aleXsandro Palombo Portrait

甚至今季的时装周上,也多了时尚插画的一席之地。时尚插画师受品牌邀请坐上秀场头排观赏和绘画新季时装已经算不得新闻,德高望重如“时尚讽刺画之父”aleXsandro Palombo(著名时尚插画博客Humor Chic博主),更是成为日前刚刚结束的2013秋冬纽约时装周的话题人物:在Alexander Wang和 Diane von Furstenberg的发布会开秀之前,几位神秘人戴着他曾受“时尚女魔头”Anna Wintour启发而创作的面纱,在时装周上分发了1000份8页厚的Humor Chic报纸,上面尽是拿“老佛爷”Karl Lagerfeld、Tom Ford和Marc Jacobs等大牌设计师们开玩笑的漫画。

而同是在这次纽约时装周期间,曾因种族歧视言论而遭到时尚界封杀的争议人物John Galliano,近期重出江湖后于2月14日头顶黑帽,扎起小辫子,身穿黑礼服,大胆地把自己打扮成了哈西德派犹太人走上街头,和Palombo在2011年为他创作的插画中的造型如出一辙,显然也是对这位时尚插画大师的致意——虽然这个举动到底是对向犹太文化示好还是挑衅,不同人仍有不同的看法。




aleXsandro Palombo在2011年因为John Galliano的种族歧视言论事件创作了一幅幽默插画,画中Galliano一身虔诚哈西德派犹太人行头。时隔1年多之后,今年2月14日,Galliano按照这幅插画把自己打扮成了犹太人,再次引发争议。


讽刺米兰时装周的幽默插画

只有在时尚文化如此丰满的今天,才会有Humor Chic这种反映时尚事件、讽刺时尚人物的时尚漫画博客存在。插画家博主Palombo是时装设计师转行专职插画家的代表人物。他用幽默插画大胆地拿Karl Lagerfeld、Anna Wintour等时尚大腕开涮,却表示只是为了有趣,不是批判,无意对时尚圈做任何改变。


VIA LIFESTYLE SG China 


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Humor Chic - DIALOG TEXTIL ROMANIA Interview with aleXsandro Palombo "Umorul este sic" by Amelia Turp-Balazs



Amelia Turp-Balazs

aleXsandro Palombo pare desprins dintr-un film al lui Visconti sau De Sica, cu eroi care ii rad in fata destinului si isi urmeaza idealurile fara a face compromisuri, intr-o realitate care pare sa se contopeasca tot mai mult in vis.
Am aflat cu totul intamplator despre ceea ce face si recunosc ca am avut un soc: un satirist de moda? Nu credeam ca este posibil. Traim vremurile lui “politically correctness”, locuim intr-o actualitate in care moda (mai ales cea de lux) se ia mult prea in serios si in care publicul a ridicat la rang faraonic cateva personaje din industrie, care ofera postulate pe banda. Palombo, prin blogul sau humorchic.blogspot.it, ii inteapa pe acestia, satirizeaza apucaturile sau caracterul unora sau pur si simplu isi exprima punctul de vedere. E politic, e scandalos, dar e si sanatos, un fel de Catavencu italian cu privire catre moda. Si antigonii sai i-ar putea reprosa orice, mai putin ignoranta. Pentru ca aleXsandro a studiat la Istituto Marangoni, a lucrat ca designer pentru diferite case de lux, iar din 2007 s-a dedicat mai mult ilustratiei. Stilul sau navigheaza intre ironie si fantezie, dar povestilor sale nu le lipseste umorul. Care insa nu este pentru oricine.

De obicei tu pui intrebarile. Cum te simti in cealalta postura?

Prefer sa comunic prin lucrarile mele. De obicei, interviurile de moda sunt plictisitoare si banale, asa ca daca trebuie sa raspund unor intrebari, raspund doar daca sunt inteligente, precum in cazul de fata.

“In the world right now, fashion is s**t”, spune Yohji Yamamoto. Esti de acord?

Sunt de acord cu el, dar as adauga totodata ca ne-am saturat de generatia designerilor mai in varsta, cei ca el. Cred ca timpul lor a trecut, si ar trebui sa se retraga, mai degraba decat sa vorbeasca.

Te-ai luat de toate figurile cunoscute din lumea modei… De ce, crezi ca meritau, este din vina lor sau a presei, care i-a ridicat pe un piedestal?

Lumea modei are un sistem media foarte mic. Tot ceea ce se spune se invarte mereu in jurul acelorasi persoane. Nu conteaza daca esti prost, deoarece spatiul le este acordat doar celor care investesc mai mult in advertising. Deci ceea ce conteaza cu adevarat este daca ai bani si putere. Acesta este sistemul modei de azi.

De ce isteria pentru brandurile de lux? Pare sa le mearga bine chiar pe timp de criza. Crezi ca traim intr-o lume in care snobismul este rege?

Cred ca brandurile de lux nu o duc deloc bine pe pietele vechi, traditionale, dar media trebuie sa spuna altceva, pentru a influenta deciziile de achizitie ale clientilor. Adevarul este ca criza a muscat multe branduri, unele au avut sau au de pierdut.
Cele care sunt in crestere datoreaza aceasta pietelor emergente precum China, Brazilia si India.

Crezi ca avem parte de prea multa informatie? Ne ajuta sau ne dauneaza imaginatiei si inspiratiei?

Nu este informatie in sistemul modei, doar o continua campanie media de autoapreciere.
Nu exista informatie etica, pentru ca buyerul sa fie ajutat si indreptat spre o intelegere corecta a sistemului de lucru. Ceea ce exista este praf in ochi.
Pentru a pricepe cu adevarat ce este moda, trebuie sa urmaresti cateva putine bloguri independente care nu sunt subiectul sistemului sau al publicitatii.

Ce faci acum, doar blogging sau mai faci si design de haine? Pe care dintre cele doua il preferi?

Am incetat sa mai fac design de haine dupa ce ideile mi-au fost furate de cateva branduri mari. Daca este pe piata o companie cu adevarat interesata sa faca bani din creativitatea mea, ma voi razgandi.
Pentru moment, imi canalizez toata energia spre lumea Humor chic si spre colaborarile cu reviste de moda. Am inventat un nou mod de a comunica si de a descrie evolutia modei si este cu mult mai distractiv!

Crezi ca moda este luata prea in serios in zilele noastre?

Este plictisitor, acordam prea multa importanta unor cifre goale si ne ghidam dupa principiile consumerismului.
Ei bine, eu cred ca ar trebui sa ne investim timpul in cultura si inteligenta.
Prostii vor ramane prosti chiar daca sunt bine imbracati.

Care ti-a fost proiectul cel mai drag pana acum? La ce lucrezi in prezent?

In general, in momentul in care termin ceva mi-l sterg din minte, e ca si cum l-as respinge.
Am lucrat la multe proiecte, dar cred ca „Fashion Simpsons“ sunt de neuitat, desenele acelea au facut inconjurul lumii.
Am fost invitat special la editia 100 a revistei Grazia din China, cel mai bine vanduta publicatie de moda din aceasta tara, cu un tiraj imens, de 1,5 milioane de copii. Am creat coperta si am ales-o pe Lady Gaga, dar am facut si cateva pagini de interior. Va iesi pe piata in curand.

Crezi ca brandurile mici, din tari precum Romania, au un viitor?

Absolut! Romania are foarte multe companii care produc pentru multe branduri, dar ar trebui sa fie rapide si sa inceapa sa investeasca in propriul label, sa incerce sa-i abordeze pe creatorii si promotorii de talente internationale, doar asa vor reusi sa concureze si sa genereze venituri pe piata in viitor.



Friday, January 25, 2013

Humor Chic Fashion News - DIALOG TEXTIL Romanian Journal for Textile and Fashion Industry "Interview with aleXsandro Palombo"



DIALOG TEXTIL is the unique magazine specialized on the textile industry, trade and fashion in Romania which reaches all the decision makers in the market. Since 1995 DIALOG TEXTIL serves the Romanian fashion industry, production and trade, with the latest national and international information.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Humor Chic World News - SINA DAILY China / French President Francois Hollande and LVMH Ceo Bernard Arnault "LIBERATION" by aleXsandro Palombo



法国2014重提富人税 

2012年12月29日,法国最高法院否决征收富人税提议,理由是:若一对夫妇中的一人年薪超过120万欧元,则他们必须为超出部分交纳高达75%的个人所得税;而每人年收入在100万欧元以下的夫妇却无需交纳。这违反了税收平等原则。
  总理Jean-Marc Ayrault在提议被否决后立即发表申明称将会重新提交议案。Jean-Marc Ayrault表示,法国个人所得税是以家庭为单位来征收,而这一新税种则针对每个自然人,这样会在纳税人中造成不平等。法院否决的是是征收方式而并非完全否决征收富人税。
  政府发言人Najat Vallaud-Belkacem 也在新闻发布会中表示:“该项税收仍然是政府通过公正振兴法国的一部分。”
  据bloomberg报道,富人税提议遭否局令法国政府在2013年损失了5亿欧元的预期税收。而这些税收的贡献者则包括演员 Gerard Depardieu和法国首富LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (MC.PA)首席执行官Bernard Arnault贝尔纳·阿尔诺,后者在9月份被踢爆试图入籍比利时,12月,据比利时媒体报道,因Bernard Arnault贝尔纳·阿尔诺在比利时居住未满三年,申请入籍受阻。
Read more SINA DAILY


Friday, January 11, 2013

Humor Chic - German BILD / After the Cult series "Fashion Simpsons", a new fashion series by aleXsandro Palombo is coming soon. So stay tuned!



SO hat man King Karl noch nie gesehen! Der italienische Illustrator aleXsandro Palombo (38) hat für seinen Blog „Humor Chic“ Mode-Ikonen wie Lagerfeld im „Simpsons“-Stil gezeichnet.

Ebenfalls „ganz in gelb“ auf der Seite anzutreffen: Vogue-Chefredakteurin Anna Wintour, Modedesigner Coco Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace und Burlesque-Tänzerin Dita Von Teese – Einfach so, als künstlerische Verneigung vor der Kultserie.

Doch leider hat sich Simspons-Vater Matt Groening noch nicht dazu hinreißen lassen, die schicken Neulinge in seine Stories zu integrieren. Schade, wir hätten Lagerfeld und Co. gern im TV reden gehört ...


Das Mode-Genie als Comic-Figur
Karl Simpson by aleXsandro Palombo 
read more BILD

Humor Chic - Süddeutsche Newspaper / After the Cult series "Fashion Simpsons", a new fashion series by aleXsandro Palombo is coming soon. So stay tuned!



Fashionistas in Dottergelb - Read more Süddeutsche

Friday, January 04, 2013

Humor Chic Fashion News - EFU China 时装讽刺漫画之父为Grazia绘制“时装幻想”(图)




aleXsandro Palombo的作品总是充满了对时尚界犀利而有趣的幻想,我们并没有严格地设定主题,而是只给了几个关键词让他自由发挥,十二幅属于红秀Grazia的时装幻想由此诞生!

Read more EFU China


Humor Chic Fashion News - GRAZIA China "Como você nunca viu"


Grazia China 100th Issue by aleXsandro Palombo
A revista Grazia China resolveu criar para a sua edição n°100, um “editorial” pra lá de diferente. A edição trouxe ilustrações criadas pelo artista aleXsandro Palombo retratando alguns dos maiores nomes do mundo da moda em uma versão “made in china”.
Alber Elbaz, Diane Von Furstenberg, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham, Ralph Lauren, Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood, Giorgio Armani e Jean Paul Gaultier foram representados.
Confira o resultado.

Read more Como você nunca viu